ASCENCION TO HUASCARAN
1st day: ARRIVAL TO LIMA.
Arrival to the city of Lima. Transfer from the airport to the Hotel. Contact with the Guide.
2nd day: LIMA – HUARAZ
Breakfast in the hotel. Transfer to Huaraz by private transport or public bus; the trip lasts about 8 hours arriving in the afternoon.
3rd day: HUARAZ (3100) – MUSHO – BASE CAMP HUASCARAN (4200).
We leave from Huaraz to Musho at 8:00 am. Arrive to Musho 10:00 am. Walk about 4 hours, Camp in the base camp (4200)
4th day: BASE CAMP (4200) – CAMP 1 (5500)
6 – 7 hours, A short rock scramble behind base camp leads onto an expanse of open rock slabs. These slabs provide a fascinating walk, leading across the front of the mountain towards the edge of the glacier, then we climb in earnest. The glacier itself is not steep, or too difficult, but its crevasses and snow bridges provide plenty of entertainment as a good route is traced amongst them. The route then arrives at a camp situated safely below the seracs of the Garganta Icefall. Because this flank of the mountain faces West, we should be treated to even more spectacular sunsets and have the advantage of losing the sun, and its warmth, late in the day. The colours, as the sun fades, will provide some marvellous opportunities to photograph the Garganta and both the North and South Peaks of Huascaran.
5th day: CAMP 1 (5500) – CAMP 2 (5950).
About 7 hours, Today we will climb the Garganta Icefall to the Col between Huascaran’s North and South summits. This will be the crux of the climb. The snow and ice on this part of the climb varies greatly from year to year but the guides will already know what to expect. You may use your technical ice hammer on some steeper sections, in addition to your alpine axe. Whether the snow is at 45°, or there are short sections of ice at 85°, the ascent of the Garganta represents a fabulous day’s climbing in awe inspiring surroundings. Having been led through the icefall by the guides, we will eventually arrive on the Garganta Col itself. From here, we will have a clear view of the remaining route to the summit.
6th day: CAMP 2(5950) – SUMMIT (6768) – CAMP 2.
About 8 hours to the summit, 4 hours return to camp 2.The advantage of the trek and ascent of Pisco and a gradual acclimatisation will be appreciated today. With the benefit of the climb of the Garganta behind us, the 35° to 40° snow slopes on summit day will be taken in our stride. Leaving our camp on the Col very early, we will cross towards the slopes below the South Summit. We will then climb a short easy angled snow couloir before traversing right, across the face, towards a small group of seracs. From here, we will join the final slope and climb south-east straight up to the summit.
7th day: DAY OFF.
A spare day to allow for bad weather.
8th day: CAMP 2 (5950) – BASE CAMP (4200).
Descend from camp 2 to base camp.
9th day: BASE CAMP (4200) – MUSHO (3200) – HUARAZ (3100).
2 at 3 hours walk. From base camp, we will descend to Musho to be met by the transport. Our vehicles will be a welcome sight, especially as they will whisk us back to Huaraz and the comforts of our hotel. Tonight will be a night to celebrate and to thank our guides and porters for their help in making the trip a success.Descending along the valley, arrive to Musho transfer from Huaraz.
10th day: HUARAZ (3100) – LIMA (180)
Transfer to Lima in private services, public bus or air flight.